Coulisse Cal Part 6
Coulisse CAL Part 6
Abbreviations
This pattern uses English terminology:
St/sts=stitch/stitches
Dc=double crochet (US single crochet)
Ch=chain
Slst=slip stitch
Tr=treble crochet (US double crochet)
Fp=front post
Bp=back post
Yrh=yarn round hook
Equipment (for all parts of the CAL)
- DROPS Fabel (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 50g/205m): 3 balls of Blue Sea Print (or Pink Dream Printor Guacamole Print depending on the colourway you choose); 2 balls of Rust(or Grey Blueor Mustard) and 2 balls of Turquoise (or Pinkor Apple Green); and a small amount of Off white (for all three colourways).
- 3mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Darning
Instructions
The join I have used (The zipper method) does take a bit longer than the other methods out there, but give it a try and see how what you think of this join. You crochet the blocks together as if you are zipping them up. In the pictures below you can see that the slip stitches make a flat cable on the front of the bag and a running stitch on the back. When joining the squares, place them side by side (not one on top of the other)
Step 1: Arrange your squares in the layout given below. Each square should be placed side by side with the right side facing up. Note: The Front and back are joined all in one piece (not separately).
Step 2: Starting with the left square on the bottom row , insert your hook from front to back into the back loop of the first stitch. Now insert your hook from front to back into the back loop of the first stitch of the other square.
Step 3: Yarn over (keeping yarn at the back of your work), pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
Step 4: Repeat Steps 2-3 all the way up your first 2 squares. Remember to keep a loose tension. Slip stitches don’t stretch as much as other stitches, so if you work very tightly, your edges won’t have any give.
Step 5: Join the squares in a grid. When you have finished joining the first two squares, don’t fasten off. Lay the next two squares next to each other as before and continue slip stitching them together as for the last squares. You can attach any number of squares in this way. The idea is that you join all the squares in one direction first and then join all the squares in the other direction after that. You should be left with a 10x5 flat rectangle. Use the zipper method to join the two sides of the rectangle together to make a tube.
Step 1: Arrange your squares in the layout given below. Each square should be placed side by side with the right side facing up. Note: The Front and back are joined all in one piece (not separately).
Step 2: Starting with the left square on the bottom row , insert your hook from front to back into the back loop of the first stitch. Now insert your hook from front to back into the back loop of the first stitch of the other square. Step 3: Yarn over (keeping yarn at the back of your work), pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
Step 4: Repeat Steps 2-3 all the way up your first 2 squares. Remember to keep a loose tension. Slip stitches don’t stretch as much as other stitches, so if you work very tightly, your edges won’t have any give.
Step 5: Join the squares in a grid. When you have finished joining the first two squares, don’t fasten off. Lay the next two squares next to each other as before and continue slip stitching them together as for the last squares. You can attach any number of squares in this way. The idea is that you join all the squares in one direction first and then join all the squares in the other direction after that. You should be left with a 10x5 flat rectangle. Use the zipper method to join the two sides of the rectangle together to make a tube.
END OF PART SIX
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